Diamond jewellery is almost exclusively crafted in 14K or 18K gold rather than higher karat gold. This choice is crucial for both the security of your diamonds and the longevity of your jewellery.
The Science Behind It:
Diamonds are the hardest natural material (10 on Mohs scale), but they need a strong, secure setting. Higher karat gold (22K or 24K) is too soft to hold diamonds securely.
Why 14K and 18K Gold:
- Secure Stone Setting: Lower karat gold is harder and stronger, providing better grip for prongs and bezels that hold diamonds in place. This prevents stones from becoming loose or falling out.
- Durability: 14K and 18K gold are significantly more durable than 22K or 24K, making them ideal for rings, bracelets, and other pieces that experience daily wear and impact.
- Design Versatility: The added strength allows for delicate prong settings, pave work, and intricate designs that showcase diamonds beautifully while keeping them secure.
- Scratch Resistance: The alloy metals (copper, silver, zinc) make the gold harder, reducing scratches and maintaining the piece's appearance over time.
-
Color Options: Different alloys create various gold colors:
- Yellow Gold: Mixed with copper and silver
- White Gold: Mixed with nickel or palladium, often plated with rhodium
- Rose Gold: Mixed with more copper for a pinkish hue
14K vs 18K for Diamonds:
- 14K Gold (58.3% pure): Maximum durability, most affordable, ideal for everyday wear and active lifestyles. Slightly less yellow in color.
- 18K Gold (75% pure): Better balance of purity and strength, richer gold color, preferred for fine jewellery. Slightly softer than 14K but still very durable.
Why Not Higher Karat?
22K or 24K gold would be too soft to securely hold diamonds. Prongs would bend, settings would loosen, and you'd risk losing your precious stones. The slight reduction in gold purity is a necessary trade-off for security and durability.